hillgurney on tour: China Part 6 - Xiahe and Labrang Monastery

After leaving Chengdu we took a 22-hour train ride to Lanzhou and then a 6-hour bus ride to Xiahe, which is in Gansu in the north of China. We'd come to Xiahe to see the Tibetan Labrang Monastery and even though we weren't actually in the Autonomous Region of Tibet, the people here think of themselves as Tibetan.

The monastery is one of the 6 major Tibetan monasteries of the Gelugpa order (Yellow Hat sect of Tibetan Buddhism). It was founded in 1709 and at its peak it housed 4000 monks but the numbers greatly declined during the Cultural Revolution and the number is now restricted to 1200.

There is a constant stream of monks and pilgrims from dusk to dawn around the Kora (pilgrim path), a 3km path around the outside of the monastery, which is lined with long rows of squeaking prayer wheels, stupas and chapels. There was no police presence around the monastery and it was very relaxed and peaceful place to visit.

The pilgrims come here from far and wide and we spent hours people-watching. Many of them were just as interested in us as we were in them. We wanted to take photos of everything and everyone and it's one of the most amazing places that we've visited in all the time that we've been travelling.

We also had a guided tour around parts of the monastery, including the amazing main prayer hall and some of the temples. Our guide was a really charming, happy monk, who spoke some English and laughed constantly. He also showed us the Yak butter sculptures, which are incredible and it's almost impossible to believe that they're made from butter. They make new ones each year and use them for the Monlam (great prayer) festival in February.

The prayer hall was the highlight as we saw hundreds of monks in their amazing robes and yellow hats praying, chanting and being fed. We were made to feel very welcome and it was such a pleasure to observe their daily life. We also saw a lot of monks in the Debating Garden sitting and standing in groups and clapping and singing (and some playing or fighting!). Once this ritual ended they sat down quietly and debated. Fascinating.

We also saw the Barkhang, which has over 20,000 wood blocks for printing the prayers, which is all done by hand.

pilgrims walking around the Kora

A very devout (crazy) lady making her way very slowly and painfully around the Kora. Some pilgrims stand up, take one step, and then lie down 1000 times!

Beautiful boy

View of Labrang monastery

Taking a break from the Kora

Nic chatting with our guide, a very happy Monk

A 93-year-old pilgrim

Yak butter sculpture that looks like Nic!

Amazing yak butter sculpture

Outside the main prayer hall

Important monk wearing his amazing robes and hat

Monks leaving the main prayer hall

Monk in the debating garden

Monks getting ready to debate

Monks fighting in the debating garden

Printing press

Riot gear layed our in the town square in Xiahe

Awesome big glasses - many men wear these big heavy glasses in this area

On one of the days we joined 2 lovely Australian ladies and went for a trip into the spectacular Ganjia grasslands. We saw our first Yaks and sheep with really amazing twisted horns. We also saw fields of wild flowers and snow-capped mountains. We visited the beautiful and remote Tseway Gampa, a Bon monastery, and we were the only visitors. We also visited Bajiao, a 2000-year-old village, which is surrounded by a 12-sided wall. The walls and buildings are made from mud and grass and we felt like we'd stepped back to Biblical times. On the way back to Xiahe we saw some people having a picnic and they invited us to join them, so we sat with them and shared each others food. They were so friendly and wore amazing traditional clothes.